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contents Foreword by Bunny Grossinger My mother's healthy kitchen 7 Going back to its roots 10 Bagels, smoked salmon and cream cheese 11 - real fusion food Healthy Kosher food 13 The religious festivals 15 Starters 19 Soups 45 Vegetables and salads 69 Main courses 93 Puddings 125 Cookies and cakes 143 Index 158 Acknowledgments 160 Foreword We Grossingers are known for our passion for food and, I'm afraid, for overconsumption too. Family memories of holidays at Grossinger's Hotel and Country Club in the Catskills belong to anyone who ever spent time there; they considered Grossinger's to be their home, too. Contrary to the old comic's joke about the food in the Catskills being so bad, but served in such small portions, good Kosher food was the foundation of the original hotel. Grandma Mulka cooked the food, and her daughter Jennie served it-all for $7 a week. Those early guests grew into what Jennie called the "greater Grossinger family." As a bride in 1947 I had my first experience of dining with my new extended "family." Approximately 1,300 members, otherwise known as "guests," were now a permanent part of my new life. I had married a hotel, a Jewish-American embassy-Grossinger's, the ultimate resort experience. Sooner or later, it seemed, everyone (Jewish or not) showed up hungry, lonely, anticipating new beginnings. You could get a grasp on what was bothering you as long as you had enough Nova Scotia (the ultimate companion to bagels and cream cheese), blintzes, Danish, herring, and even such American delights as pancakes, waffles, and sausages ... an early entry of soy into Kosher cooking. In learning how to carve out a personal life in such a sea of people-celebrities, reporters, entertainers-I had to find a way to bring up my children with a semblance of the real world. Eating at our own table in our own house seemed a good solution. We established a pattern; we would have lunch at the hotel at the "family table" and dinners at home. We even managed to have celebrations at home, earlier than the massive festivals, in the dining room, and then we would all show up to stand next to Grandma Jennie and wish people the appropriate holiday greeting. Jennie Grossinger by now had become a national institution, famous for her "Hearty Appetite!" at the end of each television commercial for Grossinger rye bread. People would come to "the G" for every reason you could hope to find in a resort, but the bottom line was the food. I still meet people who long for the dairy meal at Grossinger's or the sense of camaraderie they found at their own Grossinger family table. Obviously food was integral to the communal life at Grossinger's. My children and grandchildren also share memories of Passovers when the matzo balls exploded, when the staff went on strike and the family became chefs, waiters and chambermaids, but the Seder went off in true Grossinger's style. I have a passion for the preparation of food; I am the kind of person who reads recipes before I go to sleep. I collect cookbooks, tear out newspaper recipes, and hastily jot down dinner-party specialties to the distraction of my hostesses, who are never crazy about sharing. These are all lovingly collected and stored in folders on bookshelves. But that's as far as it goes. As much as I love reading recipes, I actually never use them. I cook like my grandmother did-lots of tasting, feeling, and smelling. The only time I ever use recipes is for holiday dishes because holiday food is traditional, and you can't "ad hoc" it. That is the one time that I need to resort to cookbooks. You can't fool around with gefilte fish, and besides, in the old days you couldn't taste raw fish because of the worms. Obviously Kosher sushi has changed all that. Also, that generation did not have cookbooks to rely on; it was passed on literally through word of mouth. Jewish cookbooks were not introduced to America until 1871. Because food and my family are synonymous in my psyche, you can imagine how excited I was when my publisher stepson, Richard Grossinger, suggested I write an introduction to this incredible book that you are about to make a part of your life. Up until now I relied on the fragile remains of my last copy of my mother-in-law's book, The Art of Jewish Cooking. Jennie Grossinger set the standard for Jewish cookbooks in the 1950s. Her book went from hardcover to paperback to mass market and sold in the millions. It was a traditional cookbook and it represented the customs and tastes of its era, the era of my parents and grandparents. With the introduction of The Healthy Jewish Cookbook, a new classic opens a new era, the era of my children, grandchildren, and even great-grandchildren. It is a book for daily use and provides a way to cook dishes that are good for the body and mind as well as the palate. It even tempts me to cook from recipes instead of improvising. When I do, I can be confident that the meals I turn out on these occasions will meet the expectations of any gourmet who may be lucky enough to be at my table. The Healthy Jewish Cookbook is, at last, a cookbook for real people, written with loving details and family memories. With it, you can actually prepare scrumptious meals, whether you observe kosher or not. The recipes are exciting; the text clear, even mindful, of the modern cook's fixation on carbohydrates and glycemic indices. Above all, these recipes are doable. And, even if you never try out one recipe in your kitchen, you can still devour the brilliant photography. I hope you find this book as pleasing as I do. I am confident that this treasure will touch the hearts and minds of every Jewish soul-food seeker. And remember, Bon Appetit.
Library of Congress Subject Headings for this publication:
Low-fat diet -- Recipes.