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Contents List of Figures vii List of Tables ix List of Contributors x Introduction 1 Beth Harris PART I: READING OUT 1 "Weary Stitches": Illustrations and Paintings for Thomas Hood's 13 "Song of the Shirt" and other Poems Susan P. Casteras 2 Workers' Compensation: (Needle)work and Ideals of Femininity in 29 Margaret Oliphant's Kirsteen 125 Arlene Young 3 "Let herself out to do needlework": Female Agency and the 41 Workhouse of Gender in Charles Dickens's Little Dorrit Joellen Masters 4 The Retailoring of Dickens: Christmas Shadows, Radicalism and 55 the Needlewoman Myth Ian Haywood 5 Chartism and Gender Politics in Ernest Jones's The Young Milliner 69 Ella Dzelzainis 6 The Melodramatic Seamstress: Interpreting a Victorian Penny 81 Dreadful Rohan McWilliam 7 All that glitters is not gold: the Show-Shop and the Victorian 97 Seamstress Beth Harris PART II: WRITING IN 8 Business or Labor? Blurred Boundaries in the Careers of 113 Self-Employed Needlewomen in Mid-Nineteenth Century Albany Susan Lewis 9 Scarlett's Sisters: Spinsters, Widows, Wives and Free-Traders in 129 Nineteenth Century North Carolina Pamela Nickless 10 "Thinking and Stitching, Stitching and Thinking": Needlework, 143 American Women Writers, and Professionalism Jacqueline Chambers 11 "Furnishing Girls with Self-Supporting Trades": Custom 157 Needlework and Vocational Education, 1890-1920 Wendy Gamber 12 Virtue, Vice and Revolution: Representations of Parisian 171 Needlewomen in the Mid-Nineteenth Century Judith DeGroat 13 "A Heavy Bill to Settle with Humanity": The Representation and 185 Invisibility of London's Principal Milliners and Dressmakers Nicola Pullin 14 "Wanted: 1000 Spirited Young Milliners": The Fund for Promoting 199 Female Emigration Jo Chimes 15 "To Be Poor and Honest ... Is the Hardest Struggle of All": Sweated 211 Needlewomen and Campaigns for Protective Legislation, 1890-1914 Sheila Blackburn Bibliography 227 Index 235
Library of Congress Subject Headings for this publication: Women dressmakers History 19th century, Dressmaking History 19th century, Fashion History 19th century